One more look at Italia

Firstly, I'm sorry for the long break, but my eyes have been so full of many journeys and I have so much to tell. Mum and I decided that we will take the bus around Firenze. We head up the hill to a magic view of Firenze which I haven't seen before. We meet a lovely French artist who makes these traditional necklaces that are made from broken tubes of glass. A few purchases were made by Mum. Linney Pinney can you email my blog to Anna and Sasha? Anna, I see so amazing frescoes and I think of you. I have taken some shots for you. I see a lovely Jewish church and it's so ornate with serpentine marble. Mum and I can see a few more poses by woman for their partners and they really produce some sexy moves. I take Mum to an old favourite for lunch inside the Firenze markets, as they have a small version of their restaurant up the back. The food was superb except for the cranky old waiter that I thought Mum was going to tell off!!! We buy some nice strawberries and the stall owner lets us try fresh prunes. Like I need them!! We go to see the statue of David and man is he tall, it's really incredible. There are all these young students drawing him. We bump into our friends Wendy and Peter in the museum. Hi guys, if you have managed to stick with my blog. Sonia, my Mirka Mora book is delicious and it has people I know in it. I head off to a meeting tonight as I pass a demonstration with lots of police watching. Mum and I walk over Ponte Vecchio and have some wonderful shots taken of each other. We have a lovely meal at a family run cafe and Mum has a hot chocolate that a spoon stands up in! Back to our cat piss casa tonight. We get up in the morning and get a lovely Eurostar train to Milan. It's full of very good looking business men off to work. We have quite a bit of trouble finding an ATM and I feel a tanty coming on. We head off on a bus to Malpensa airport (Milano) to catch a flight to Istanbul to meet my Books. It's been to 2 weeks since we saw each other. Let's hope she has arrived safely. Ciao Italia

Oh Siena

We head off on our tour on this massive big coach. Our guide is translating into French, Italian, German and English. It has been such a bonus to get out of the big city. We have about 6 Americans behind us and it sounds like they have been taking some art classes in Florence. We arrive in Siena and the town is so beautiful and it's been a real highlight of Italia. There is a real rivalry that goes back for centuries between Florence and Siena. I personally feel that Siena is way ahead. This town is famous for the horse race around the centre. It happens twice a year in July and August so if you are nearby, put it in your travel plans. The people start arriving at 7am to get their spots and they end up with 40,000 people for when the race starts at 7pm. The course around the piazza has two very sharp bends and it's cobblestones underneath and the jockeys ride bareback! They have 10 jockeys from the regions and the 10th jockey decides when the race starts. This may not help him but a friend in another region who may want to take out another enemy from a region. The winner can simply be the first horse across, with or without a jockey. We have a guide take us around the town and we have these listening devices called "whispers". This town has real class and old world charm and they have a wonderful church with a Michelangelo statues, and a room with incredible frescos that Raphael painted and put himself in as a very young person. The floor work and the pictures are carved into marble and the stained glass windows are amazing. The Red Cross volunteers had set up in town offering free blood pressure checks, so of course Mum and I had ours done, and it was a little higher than normal, and she very kindly told it was from all our walking! We had our photos taken and I told them I worked for Red Cross in Australia. We had free time but most of the group have gone to the recommended cafe for lunch. Mum and I spotted all these young students eating these delicious looking huge slices of pizza. Now Mum isn't a pizza fan but she can smash a fine Italian slice. The place is really cool with some fine jazz music in the background as we ooh and aah. Next stop was Monterosso which was a small village and I have a fabulous shot of this old Italian couple sitting in the square, and it looks like they are laughing and talking about the tourists. We make our way to a family run vineyard in Chianti. The others sample all the wines while we are sampling the pecorino cheese, salami and the most delicious olive oil and balsamic syrup which is so lovely and sweet, and you can have it on your ice cream!! We then head to San Gimignano, which is a town that friends have mentioned as a must-see. It's totally lovely and quiet; even though lots of people visit, we are there later in the day. We go down a side alley and find this panoramic view, which I'm sure you will enjoy seeing on our 5,000 slide show night!! After such exhaustion Mum and I find ourselves on the end of Baci ice cream, ummm Baci. This town is infamous for its saffron ice cream which we had a little taste of. I'm glad we didn't get a whole one as it was very sweet. This is also the best place for "wild boar". We say goodbye and we make our way back to Florence. We met some young Australians from Mildura and Melbourne who arrive back in time to make a train to Bologna for a food tour. Guess what; we find ourselves down another Via and we arrive at a lovely Osteria for dinner. Lisa, you may need to get some inspiration for dinner now. For entree we share a bruschetta of Pecorino cheese figs and honey, followed by pesto spaghetti. Underneath our hotel is a patisserie where we convinced a lovely Italian barista to make us a hot chocolate as a nightcap. Norms and Relle, there isn't a scale in sight at this stage. We head back now to the cat pee haven. Buona Notte.

Ciao Firenze

The great thing about hotel Oasi is they offer real cappuccino and I'm making the most of this. We have an earlyish train booked from Levanto to Florence. We got a lovely Italian taxi man and he is very good looking. We arrive at the station and Mum can't get her seatbelt off. So our man is trying to get her out. Mum put a decent battle! We arrive at Pisa and we head for the cafe. I ask the toilet attendant how far it is to the leaning tower and it's only 15 minutes on a bus. So we dump our bags at the bagaglio and jump on the LAM Rossa bus. It was really worth the visit and of course we have our pictures taken like we are holding the tower up. I'm so disappointed I can't show you my pictures. Mum has been experiencing all the different classes of Italian trains, as we now head to Florence on the Eurostar that has just arrived from Rome. We arrive in Florence and I really show Mum the sights by dragging our cases via the cobblestone streets. We check into a hotel that I have stayed at 3 times before, but it will be last. It's too sparse and the room smells of cat pee and it has put me in a hole!  When I rang reception he bought up a can of air freshner. I had to ring Booka that night as I didn't think we could stay. I want to experience another part of Italy this time, so we have booked ourselves on a tour to Siena, San Gimignano and a winery tour in Chianti, and it leaves in the morning. I must say this is my 4th time to Florence and I don't think I would come again. Things are looking really tired. The Duomo (cathedral) is very grubby and they are in the middle of some renovations. Russell and Brian I have thinking of you in Bali on your well deserved holiday and I hope it's wonderful. Melinda and Lyn I dreamt that you two got married to each other.

Ah Cinque Terre

We have our pass and we are now on the train to get towards the village to do our walk along the beautiful rugged coastal line which is part of the Italian riviera.We start at Riomaggiore and it's a little windy, but you get a real sense of a lovely fishing village here. They have the classic old Italian fishing boats with such vivid bright blues. We walk up the top to see the views and meet the lovely Peter and Wendy from Gerringong in NSW. We take shots of each other and say our goodbyes as we may catch you in the next town. We continue on to Manarola and you walk on a cemented path, and one part is for the lovers (Via Dell'Amore). They have all these locks with people's names on as a declaration of their love. I saw a little Huggies nappy tied up next to the locks and I thought maybe that is the next step of the love! The lemon trees are everywhere and I forgot to mention that in Levanto the lemons were as big as grapefruits, but long like a droplet. You can see why the Italians thought "what can we do with all of these? Why don't we make a liqueur - limoncello perhaps." The cliffs and the views are fabulous. We can't walk to Corniglia as they had a huge mudslide last October of 2011. From our view you can see four tracks that have washed the hill away in parts. I can't quite see how this will be repaired and not so quickly. We catch the train and we view Corniglia.  They have all these old black and white shots of the men and women who carted down all the grapes on their heads from the vineyards. I grab my first slice of pizza and some piccolo dolce - yummm. We bump into Peter and Wendy as they enjoy lunch at the hotel and we head back. Next stop Vernazza. Mum has an interesting story to tell re what happened at this station. We get off at Vernazza and it's so devastating as this is the village I walked to in 2002. This village was absolutely wrecked even worse by the floods and the smell is still lingering, and no boats are in the sea. If you can imagine a lovely shop front and you look up to the roof - that was the height of the water that rushed down the mountain and ruined the bottom of the town and their livelihood. From here we start the rugged walk to Monterosso and it takes us about 2.5 hrs. As we climbed so high we had the inefficient cooling systems at full tilt. Our thighs and calves are going to peel open like a banana! We battle on through moss, a little water, some rickety old fences, and pass people who look exhausted. We then see real devastation where houses on the cliffs have been washed away; they have no floors and there are only window frames left. The path at times is so narrow and it's best not to look down. As we are descending, we come across a little vineyard and a man has a hole in the fence where he offers fresh homemade lemonade, limoncello & wine; Mum and I scull two lemonades. We make our way around to Monterosso with many leg stretches. We have a lovely dinner in the village and the owner's husband was a great rower and they display many trophies. It's a great eclectic mix of art and family photos. We decide that we will catch the train back to Levanto at 8.30pm but after many cancelations we make it back to our hotel by 10pm. DC, thankfully we didn't have to share a pillow at the Oasi.

Au Revoir France - Buon Giorno Italia

We leave the Cap this morning and Terry has organised a driver to pick us up to take us to Monaco train station. We drive down 12 floors of this carpark but can't find the entrance, so we drive up 12 floors again. The attendant tells us that we have to go down again!! I'm feeling really great by now. We hop on the train while Mum is trying to an email to Dad from the platform as we make use of the wifi. They are getting ready for the Grand Prix and they are erecting signs on the platforms. Just a little info on Monaco - its population is 18,000 and 35,000 commute to work to service the 35,000 visitors each day. It's only 3/4 of a square mile in size; Central Park is bigger. Our train takes us to the Italian border, where we head for another change over in Genoa. We have a quick stopover and we head for the cafe bar and I am reminded we are in Italia now, as I have to pay for a cornetto and coffee beforehand. We head from Genoa to Levanto which is one village prior to the Cinque Terre walk. We board the train and, surprise, a young Italian guy is sitting in our seat and we have the same seat number. The conductor comes and I explain our situation. We find out later from a lady that the conductor told him off, said he wasn't very gallant to the tourists and was cross with him. But such are the Italians, he didn't chuck him off. The ticket he had was for yesterday and he had his finger over the date. We arrive in Levanto, grab our map for the walk, and take the local taxi to our hotel Oasi. The hotel was lovely, but this time Mum and I are in the Queen bed. They don't get our request; va bene! Tonight we head around the town where I come across the Red Cross in Levanto. The town is right on the coast and there are two guys out surfing in wetsuits on some really small, desperate waves. We find a lovely little family trattoria where Mum tries the local fish, and I have a lovely cheese and pine nut pasta. We have a good night's sleep to prepare ourselves for the big walk.

Good morning French Riviera

Mum and I shared a bed last night and we had such a great sleep after a big day yesterday. It's nice to stop for a couple of days. We went for a morning walk around The Cap and it's so amazing with all the huge houses and the yachts on the water. They even have a "petit chien" fountain. David Niven had a house here and apparently the parties at his house were infamous. We have a lovely breakfast as we look out to a massive cruise ship from the balcony. The water is very deep and it can host American war ships out the front. I saw a lady swimming out there in her bathers, and she was way out far and deep. We decide to drop our trusty car and Ken back in Monaco as it was easier than trying to do it in Nice at the crack of dawn. We head down to Monaco and I drove the car along the Grand Prix track of Monaco, which is happening two weeks later. I think Books, Frank & Stu would be impressed especially when I had to park it on the start line! Every Friday Jan and Terry go to this English pub in Monaco called the Ship & Castle and they have fish and chips and mushy peas. Well who are we to break tradition? Trisha, I think you asked me if we went there - it was good fun. We walked around the sea and now we can we see some serious mega cruises. We drove past the casino and we saw the palace up the top. We went to this lovely rose garden that's dedicated to Princess Grace as she loved roses. We went around the route of the Grand Prix, and man, are some of those turns tight! We finished the night at a lovely old village called Villefranche-sur-Mer, and they put on this magnificent fireworks display. The houses here are places people come for summertime retreats and they have minders look after them while they away. For the last couple of years the Russians have been buying everything up and renovating them. You have to keep the original shell. In peak time you are not allowed to renovate or light bonfires when the tourist are around. There is this huge house on the water that was owned by Americans and this guy from Moldova went to the real estate agent and wanted him to ask the owners to sell. He did and they declined. This guy is 40 something and he goes to the house, knocks on the door and tells them he wants to buy it for $10 million and they declined. He said how about $40 million and they said yes and would you like the curtains. He makes his money by chopping down forests in Siberia. I lay in bed and hear the water, aah.....

Are we there yet?

We have set off from Bonnieux and our destination by nightfall will be Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riveria. DC was curious re our final destination and she googled it. It's really the land of the rich and famous, so please have a look. Mum and Dad's friends from Melbourne live there for 6 months of the year. We were driving for a while and we got stuck behind a tractor and of course I was too scared to take over. Finally he stopped and let us pass so we could get out of first gear!! Our next stop was a town called Forcalquier, and you have be careful how you pronounce this. This town is lovely and I bought a great scarf in this little shop and the guy was quite interesting, especially with the fresh bruise he was sporting on his eye. He told Mum and me to go check out the fountain and see if we can find anything that looks a little strange. So here we are looking, looking... and then Mum spotted the picture of a couple in a 69 position!! The guy was really pleased with her. We then decided to stop for lunch. Just in case you were missing our food update, well here it comes. We had lunch in a Moroccan restaurant. For my friends that know me all too well, you could imagine my surprise when they served us up a bowl of chickpeas for entree!! Poor Mum, we didn't need to fill the car with diesel;  I fueled it with gas instead. We drove on via lovely villages in the Provence and then we hit this hill where we went up 1000 feet above sea level. My eyes and nose were really tight with a lot of pressure. I was really quite anxious at this stage as I was driving up one hairpin bend after another; it was really scary. We made it up to the top and then we could see the French Alps. Forgive me P-man, I can't remember the name. We found these huge fields of some dry bush and when we stopped, it was lavender and the smell was wonderful. We were on the road to Gorges du Verdon, but we didn't get there as time was ticking away. We drove around this bend and then it took our breath away, as there was this huge lake of some sort called Retenue De Saint-Croix, which produces electricity. The colour was amazing and it was like we were in the Mediterranean. After a few more stops on the way, Ken has got us on the freeway and now I'm quite nervous. We grab a ticket and then about half an hour down the freeway, we have to chuck coins into the basket; it was like when I used to cross the Sydney Harbour bridge. The speed limit is 130 km thank god, and I quite quickly get into the swing of taking over the trucks. Ken keeps telling us that we need to leave the highway and go via Cannes. So we go via Cannes in the insane traffic for 45 minutes and then we get back on the freeway. Bad Ken!!! Mum and I are now not talking to Ken. By the way, I always wanted to go to Cannes, but it doesn't look like much chop. We head towards Nice and pull over and double park like the French, and punch in Cap Ferrat. We come into the "The Cap" as it's known and it's so amazing. We have definitely gone up a few notches tonight. Are we there yet? Yes, we make it to Jan and Terry's place and are greeted with the most amazing view overlooking the water.  We sit down to a terrific lamb roast and do a load of washing. Good night Cap.

You drove in France!!

I have just face-timed Booka; you gotta love this modern technology. She is leaving tonight and we will see each other soon in Istanbul, and I can't wait. We left the town of Avignon and caught a bus to pick up our car. It was a lovely Renault and the camp guy on the desk insisted on giving us the car with the sat nav in it and showed us how to use it. He was ever so excited about us finding an Australian chap called "Ken" on the TomTom. Ken is our new best friend. Mum asked me if I wanted to drive and I thought "what the heck". We bravely drove from the Gare d'Avignon at 5 kms per hour!!! Managing the first roundabout on the wrong side of the road, oh my god!!! We set off, and look out Provence, here we come. Not having used a TomTom before, we soon discovered a "deviation, as the French call it. So we are not 5 minutes out of town and we are lost, and bloody Ken insists on telling me we need to turn around. We finally get back on track and it is hilarious as Mum is still trying to work what the hell Ken is talking about!! If you have ever driven through Provence, you will know it is so beautiful. Mum described the countryside as soft and it's so lush and green. I think she liked the small peloton of men in lycra on bikes in front of us for a while!! We stopped at a fruit stall on the side of the road and bought half a kilo of strawberries and they were so sweet. We ate as we drove with not a care in the world. We hit the following places - Gordes (medieval town that stops you in your track) and then we drove to Apt as we thought we may stay the night. It was so dodgy looking that we drove onto a lovely little town called Bonnieux. If you get a minute, google some of the images of these towns. We had no accommodation and we managed to get a room at the very top of the village. This village is across the way from Lacoste. We had dinner over looking the valley and we both had duck with the most delicious mushroom sauce. Now about the duck, I think he gave us one each, it was huge. The French election debate was on and they were all glued to the tv in the restaurant. You know who won by now. At the end of the day my neck was tight from surviving the day driving in France. I'm so proud of myself and Mum, as it wasn't easy at times, especially when a bus is coming - yikes! We are still friends and laughing lots which is great. Good night my lovelies, it's 11.45pm now and I need to make sure Mum isn't snoring her head off. Ciao for now.

Sur le Pont d'Avignon

We arrived in Avignon on the train from Paris and we went about 600 kms in 2.5 hrs. Well the flavour of our trip has been many modes of transport and thank god that we have had a variety! I have been walking so much that I reckon I could represent Australia in London for the 25 km walk!! We walked "sur le pont d'Avignon", which was amazing and it doesn't go the length of the river. Now listen to this one. This guy, a peasant, gets a message from God and he tells him to gather all the people in the village and get them to help him to build the bridge, and they all do this amazing job. I have been waiting and I'm still yet to get my message!!! So hang on to your knickers, as a great monument is coming I'm sure. We caught this tiny train around Avignon and it was so great, as you get all the lowdown of the history. We managed to convince a guy in an American bar to make Mum and me some take-away hot chocolates in plastic beer mugs!! Are we desperate? The food trail still continues - I think "a few pastries a day keep the Doctor at bay". It's 10.30 at night and I'm sitting in the hotel breakfast area on the wi-fi updating you. I'm now in Italia (Firenze) and we are just next door to the Duomo and in the distance, a band is playing with a bass, and they are wonderful. Mum is up in bed as it's been a long day for us, having been out since 8.30am. Has anyone seen Mrs Brown; it's a man dressed up as a woman and I have been showing it to Mum on the iPad. I'm having trouble adding photos from the iPad to the blog. Any tips anyone?

The rest of Gay Paris

It's me; I'm back again, and thanks to Sonia for giving me the heads-up, as she has told me that I haven't been posting my updates the right way. So I am now lying in bed in PJ's updating you on the last part of our travels in Paris before we headed to Avignon. We travelled around Paris some more via those jump-on, jump-off buses, which I haven't done before. It was really good as you get a lot of detailed history. Don't you love the French? You do something incredible for your country and then they chop your head off!!! What thanks is that? The Marais, where we stayed, is so great, as it's always buzzing with people, shops and of course, great food. I have been getting a few comments from friends about our eating tour of Paris, and you will be pleased to know, it still continues. My high school French is killing the French; they can't get enough of it. We jumped on the Batobus that took us all around the Seine at night, so we could see the city sparkle. I mean how many photos can a couple of gals take of the Eiffel Tower!!! Oh, did I mention that we climbed the Arc de Triomphe. Thankfully oxygen was at hand as we took our final step up!! As it was Anzac Day recently, they had a massive French flag flying in the middle of the Arc. Sally and Wong, we found the lovely apartment where you stayed and it's looks big, and in such a great location. As you know, I work for the Red Cross and if you see any offices on your travels, you take photos. So we stumble across one in Paris, and so I take a snap. Well, later that night, I see Red Cross volunteers selling flowers for the May Day Celebrations, so of course I introduce myself, and next minute I'm in one of their jackets having a photo with the whole group!! You gotta love the Humanitarians. Bonsoir my lovelies - until next time.